"Strong Roots for Better Trees"
Planting trees and shrubs can be very easy if you follow a few simple
principles:

  • Plant at the right time (spring, summer, fall) for the given plant
  • Plant in a suitable location for the tree or shrub
  • Prepare the soil
  • Provide adequate water for the first year
  • Use a moderate level of good quality fertilizer
  • Watch for pests and disease
Planting
Guide
A Family Owned Tree Farm
To be specific, here are my step by step instructions for success:
  1. Most trees and shrubs should be planted in the fall as this reduces the need for
    watering and gives the plant time to get established before the hot summer weather
    gets going.  There are exceptions and if you water properly, plants can survive even
    summer planting, but it will take more work.
  2. Select the location where you plan to plant the tree carefully.  Plan for how large the
    plant will be when fully grown! Think about sun and water needs of the plant now.  
    Specific plant info about sun (full, partial, or shade) and water (likes moisture or
    doesn't like moisture) needs to be considered BEFORE YOU DIG!
  3. Dig the hole several inches wider and deeper than the plant root ball.  This is
    especially important in heavy (clay) soils.  Roots will grow out into the new soil in a
    few weeks under normal conditions if the soil is not compacted.  
  4. Return some of the loose soil into the hole so that when the plant is in place, the top
    of the pot or root ball is 1 inch above the surrounding soil.
  5. Remove the plastic pot or RootTrapper bag before lowering into the hole.  The only
    exception is for Balled and Burlapped (B&B) trees.  For B&B trees, put the ball in the
    hole first, partially back fill the hole, then remove the twine from around the trunk and
    fold down the burlap and basket.  Natural burlap will mulch into the soil, but synthetic
    burlap must be removed.
  6. After partially filling the hole, add a handful of good slow release fertilizer.  Slow
    release fertilizer (like Osmacote) will feed the plant for several months without
    burning the plant.
  7. Fill the hole with remaining soil and firm in with your foot.  Top with mulch, but do not
    pile up mulch against plant trunk.  Mulch helps with weeds and keeps the soil moist.
    Sprinkle another handful of slow release fertilizer over the mulch.
  8. Water well right away and keep the plant from becoming too dry through the first
    summer, but don't over-water and drown your plant.
  9. Watch for pests and disease and seek a nursery professional or extension agent's
    advice if problems appear.  Weeds (and grass) will steal water and nutrients from the
    plants, so keep the mulch weed free for best results.
  10. ENJOY YOUR PLANTS FOR YEARS TO COME.

    Note: I do not stake my trees that I plant in the landscape and have never had a tree
    blow over using the method above. (Although I have had to straighten a few trees
    after a hurricane!) Many landscapers amend the soil with high quality but lighter soil
    than the surrounding natural soil.  This lighter soil makes it necessary for staking of
    larger trees.  Staking is up to you, but I don't think it is necessary in most cases.  
    Also, staking can lead to other problems.  I recently saw several trees planted in a
    neighboring city, where the support wire was not removed or adjusted as the trees
    grew.  Several trees were completely dead due to the girdling affect of the support
    wire.  So if you stake, remember to remove the staking system after the first growing
    season.